When a recipe begins with the instruction to melt some butter in a pan, you can pretty much guarantee you're onto a winner. Like bacon or chorizo, it makes pretty much everything better.
Butter may have gone out of fashion in the 1980s and 1990s - certainly, I grew up with lurid yellow and unmitigatedly awful margarine, and butter was seen as decadent as well as unhealthy - but I swear by the stuff now. As, it seems, do many others - if this Guardian article by Morwenna Ferrier is anything to go by.
While I wouldn't dare to claim to be some kind of connoisseur - we generally get supermarket own brand, and unsalted because it's more versatile - visiting one of the specialist butter shops in Paris featured in the article is now on my wishlist.
That said, two stunning examples can be found close to home. The Marmite butter at Heaneys has (quite rightly) become the stuff of local legend, while a morcilla-laced variant was a highlight of a meal at Asador 44 last month. Their beauty is that, unlike a spread that sits atop bread, they melt through the warm toasted sourdough, infusing and enriching it with flavour. I can't recommend either highly enough.
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