Know Your Enemy

"If Beast were a chap, he would be a part-time rugby player smelling of Ralgex who’s trying to tell you he’s deep and thoughtful, even though he’ll later be implicated in an incident involving a traffic cone and a pint glass of his own urine."

Jay Rayner on fine form, setting about the task of reviewing "deeply silly and ruinously pricey" London steak and crab restaurant Beast with as much relish as if it was the best thing on the menu. Truffle and foie gras salt on your chips, sir?

(Thanks to Mike for the link.)