Thursday, August 01, 2024

Pairing menu in prospect, but Poca pushed out

It seems that No. 5, the successor to long-standing Romilly Crescent restaurant Bully's, is to close after only a year - but the prospect of what's coming next has got me licking my lips.

It's safe to say that Tommy Heaney and Dave Killick are whatever the chef equivalent of a supergroup is. The latter has been instrumental in putting the Heathcock firmly on the gastropub map, while Heaney should need no introduction, as the proprietor of both Heaney's - currently (and understandably) ranked the finest restaurant in Wales - and the neighbouring Uisce, opposite the new premises.

As with most of the best ideas, the as-yet-unnamed venture was conceived over a pint, and Heaney is promising that it will offer "a new concept for Cardiff" - a bold claim, but one that he and Killick are certainly capable of delivering on.

Too many cooks spoil the broth? In this case, I very much doubt it.

Less welcome, however, is the announcement that Poca faces an uncertain future. The small-plates restaurant, situated a short hop from Romilly Crescent on Kings Road, will soon be closing its doors because the building is being sold and they can't raise the revenue to buy it. The Instagram post states that they will be "reassess[ing] the situation in the coming months", but there's no certainty that the restaurant will be resurrected elsewhere.

It's a stark reminder that business can be good and you can have earned plaudits from local food writers, and yet the rug can still be yanked out from under your feet with little warning.

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